D&G screens during show

Milan has been exciting so far and proved once more that despite multimedia there is still magic before and after a show; the hype, the glamour, the snobbism and the return of memories of forgotten seasons. Turnover for Italian menswear was around 8.3 billion euros in 2010, enough reason for thousands of visitors belonging to the media and fashion industry, to have a few espresso in town. There are 39 shows on the calendar and even though it doesn’t finish until Thursday, I am brave enough to already make some conclusions for the future.

Costume National Milan A/W 2011/12

I won’t bore you with long descriptions of collections because I know you are all about seeing a product, touching it and trying it on. Some of you are ok with seeing it only, but most of you need the full experience. Press releases about new collections sometimes amuse me; if you are not an insider, globetrotter, historian, fabric or colour expert you sometimes would end up not quite knowing what it is all about.  I plead guilty myself, I have written such essays for international brands for some years and somehow most designers expect you to dress it all up with exotic and rarely-used words and heroic themes.

Zegna Milan A/W 2011/12

So let’s get to the most important, practical notes:  As I have said and written before – menswear is changing. The understanding and acceptance of how menswear works in real life is changing. There is an array of possibilities for next winter so that you will be able to create a synthesis between formalwear and sportswear/smart casual, very often even canceling out shirts and ties. So let me make it clear: I believe men will start wearing separates more (meaning combinations of trousers and jackets put together and allowing colours, materials and structures play and complement each other).  Men are on their way to follow the girls (nothing new to them, but I am talking about the sartorial map now!)  and will mix and match more and will be comfortable with it. Yes, some will struggle (just give us a call if you do….) but some will feel exhilarated and happily find a new authentic style for themselves and the way they live their life.

Zegna Milan A/W 2011/12

The mediocre suit will have a hard time.  And even though analysts are predicting the demand for tailored suits and ties to remain flat, I can’t help myself thinking that the stylish and modern man WILL go for quality suits. He may even start to think about Savile Row if he has never done so, because he will want to wear a suit that is really well fitting. If it has to be a suit then it will have to be top-notch or first class because for all other times in his business and private life he will try to work a more casual look. Still smart, still sharp, but more informal and relaxed. The working world is changing and apart from the classic ‘suit and tie industries’ (see UBS dress code), the borderlines between home and work are starting to blur in many industries. Milan mirrored that new world of making business in the future. Not with every collection presented of course, but I saw a hint of t in Zegna, Costume National, Burberry Prorsum, Armani and Roberto Cavalli… surprisingly we even saw it in Dolce & Gabbana.

Lots of menswear lines for the next winter are very attractive, warm, comfortable looking and wearable. Of course, you sometimes need to have a lot of imagination to see the ‘real man’ in some of the outfits. This is either because they are diluted by the slim, boyish youngsters wearing them, or because you would think I was joking if I were to suggest that bright orange or light purple suit for your next social outing. I won’t – and I will not suggest the lime green and pink one either. Remember the 10 Platinum Dress Rules for a modern Man? Rule 4: Men are more intelligent than parrots, because they avoid ‘P’ colours. Stick with greys, charcoal, chocolate (delicious), black, night-blue, camel, red (just not for trousers please!), royal blues, mahogany and all sorts of rusty red/brown nuances. There is plenty of it.

Dolce & Gabbana Milan A/W 2011/12

Burberry Milan A/W 2011/12

If you like collars; accentuated, big, fancy, fury, elaborately trimmed, shearling  – you will be pleased. Outerwear in general will be exciting and eye-catching. Get ready for some good staples in your wardrobe, the pea coat will be a must. Post-war army style can add authority and I quite liked some urban looks as well. Materials are faux fur, boiled wool, cashmere, waxed cotton, leather, wool, tweed. Some can look rough-chic; an interesting new touch done well.

Stay away from too much wrinkled materials, jacquards or glittery numbers and even if it is a ‘trend’, make sure your trousers are not too short and too skinny. They may look good on Mr David Gandy, but many of you might fight to keep your waistline sleak and fit, or perhaps you enjoy other sports to all these beautiful men on the catwalk, hence your upper and lower thighs may be a tiny bit more voluminous. Don’t worry – a bit more flesh on the bones looks good, most women prefer it. Also, Armani said yesterday, “Elegance is key. Skinny trousers and too-short jackets are not”. I agree wholeheartily for most men.

Jil Sander Milan A/W 2011/12

Shirts have very small collars and are mostly tight fitting. Refer to our previous blogs about shirts as Milan has not changed my mind.  Ties sometimes look as if they have been cut in half,; I cannot help myself but look at them and think they look cheap. And the super slim suspenders made me cringe! But there are some fantastic knits to look forward to, and cardigans, quite often in stripes or blocks of colours. Picked wisely they are great to complement a new relaxed, but sharp look.

For all geeks and nerds, designers have even thought of iPad shoulder cases, waist pouches and new upgraded belts with useful solutions for techno-gadgets. Not to forget the holdall bag as some of them are very beautiful and masculine (avoid the feminine versions if possible). And hats, yes hats and caps! You will need to overcome your reluctance, if you have any, and go and buy one. I can only say – read and see our blog ‘Mad men with hats’ and you will be fine for next winter. But I would not suggest the new cap in cow pattern!

“Upper sportswear is on the rise, as shown by several top businessmen around the world”, fashion expert Branchini said. I don’t think it is only a ‘rise in sportswear’, but I’m glad that others see a new development in menswear as well.